This narrative is a segment of a Sunday column titled “Pamela’s Food Service Diary,” which commenced during the pandemic.
In Staten Island, New York, as you gather for an Easter meal, it’s advisable to steer clear of three sensitive topics: politics, religion, and the ever-tricky question, “How old do you think I really am?” Instead, focus on the unifying power of food and nostalgia.
Let’s shift the conversation to a more pleasant note and journey back to the late 1970s and early 1980s on the Upper East Side. This reminiscence is inspired by my visits to my uncle’s restaurant, the former Jim McMullen’s located at 1341 Third Avenue.
If these reflections trigger any memories for you, I welcome you to share them with me.
Uncle Jim, alongside Aunt Alice, is captured in the private dining room of his restaurant during a family gathering. (Courtesy of Pamela Silvestri)
McMullen’s, with its polished wooden facade nestled between 76th and 77th streets, transitioned in the ‘90s under new ownership, transforming into Atlantic Grill with a distinctive blue exterior. Eventually, these premises became part of Lenox Hill Hospital.
The iconic tan canopy and maroon lettering of McMullen’s made a cameo in the opening credits of “Tootsie,” with Dustin Hoffman, Bill Murray, and Teri Garr filmed in a kitchen scene that featured some of the actual restaurant staff (many of whom were Broadway actors working part-time) in the background. This moment from the early ‘80s encapsulated the vibrant restaurant culture of that era.
Memorable Dining Experiences
In the 1970s, the Upper East Side boasted a variety of establishments that left a lasting impression, including JG Melon’s (still in operation), Mortimer’s, Orwasher’s Bakery, Rappaport toy store, Canterbury Bookstore, and the renowned Elaine’s, which was immortalized in the Billy Joel song “Big Shot.”
A classic onion soup from the ‘70s and early ‘80s featured gruyere cheese melted over French bread with copious caramelized onions in a rich veal stock-based broth. The cheese would form a delectable crisp layer on top. Nowadays, it’s more common to encounter Munster, Swiss, or bland mozzarella as substitutes, which simply don’t measure up to the original experience! (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)
Elaine’s stood out with its mention in Billy Joel’s lyrics, where “They were all impressed with your Halston dress and the people that you knew at Elaine’s.” It was a late-night hotspot where owner Elaine Kaufman was a fixture at her own table.
While these ‘70s restaurants shared similar menus, each had its unique atmosphere. Signature dishes included liver and onions with bacon, onion soup au gratin topped with pungent Gruyere cheese, and a juicy burger that dripped with flavorful juices. These childhood memories were savored with Shirley Temples and an abundance of Maraschino cherries.
One standout dish from the ‘70s was a smoked salmon appetizer. At my uncle’s restaurant, this dish was served with shaved boiled egg yolk, egg white, capers, finely minced red onion, and a side of horseradish mayonnaise. When I later tried to recreate this dish at my own restaurant on Staten Island, the former American Grill, our chef discovered that spraying bread slices with Pam cooking spray before toasting them was the key to achieving the delicate crunch reminiscent of the original.
While the tastes of the past may be fleeting, their impact endures. Just like cherished conversations around the family table, memories of these dishes may become even more delightful with time. This is one of the enduring charms of the restaurant industry.