Me and Asturias have a long history together. Back in the mid-1980s, I first arrived in this region as a backpacking student using an Interrail pass, traveling on the traditional trains that clattered along the Cantabrian coast from Bilbao to La Coruña. The sight of lush valleys sloping down to the sea, expansive beaches pounded by the mighty Atlantic waves, and quaint fishing villages clinging to the rocky shores left me in awe. Despite the chilly climate, the locals exuded a warmth and hospitality that oddly reminded me of the relaxed atmosphere of the Mediterranean.
Asturias, one of the four regions along Spain’s northern coast, boasts a rich tapestry of uniqueness and variety. Known officially as the Principality of Asturias, it showcases its own language, culture, and gastronomy. The cool, damp weather nurtures verdant pastures, deciduous forests, and imposing mountain ranges. While traditionally a preferred holiday destination for Spaniards, more discerning international travelers are now opting for vacations in this temperate northern paradise as temperatures soar in the Mediterranean.
Asturias is home to the picturesque Cudillero fishing village, nestled in the northern part of Spain.
In the years following that enlightening Interrail journey, I found myself returning time and again. I explored the charmingly reserved capital of Oviedo during a memorable long weekend and experienced the lively coastal town of Gijón, with its vibrant beach culture and salty seaside ambiance. It was in the bustling Cimadevilla neighborhood of Gijón that I first tasted Asturian cider, poured in a thin stream into a flat-bottomed glass for a refreshingly crisp (and slightly intoxicating) sip.
The allure of Asturias’s cuisine and beverages captivated me the most. The hearty local dishes centered around staples like fabada asturiana, a hearty stew of faba beans, cured pork, and smoked sausage, and the velvety rice pudding known as arroz con leche. I came to appreciate the premium Asturian produce such as grass-fed beef, Cantabrian seafood, and a variety of artisanal cheeses. Dining at traditional eateries operated by skilled female chefs known as guisanderas, I indulged in local favorites like oxtail-stuffed onions and maise-flour tortos with minced meat picadillo. While embracing the traditional Asturian fare, I also witnessed the region’s embrace of innovative Spanish cuisine, exemplified by establishments like Casa Marcial, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by chef-patron Nacho Manzano.
Asturias not only captivated me with its cultural heritage but also with its natural wonders. With 24 nature reserves, including a National Park and three major Natural Parks, Asturias preserves a significant portion of its land for conservation. Exploring the rugged terrains on extensive hikes became a recurring theme in my travels. One memorable trek in the summer of 2009 led me along the Camin Real de la Mesa, a Roman road meandering through the untamed landscapes of Somiedo Natural Park under the guidance of mountain expert Guillermo Mañana. The region’s pristine interior still shelters wolves and bears, offering wildlife enthusiasts unique opportunities for observation through specialized tourism activities.
As my bond with Asturias deepened over the years, our relationship evolved into a comfortable companionship, characterized by mutual respect and ongoing discovery. While the scorching summers in southern Spain drive many southward, I find myself drawn northward annually to the unspoiled beaches and verdant valleys of Asturias.
And now, the latest chapter in this enduring love affair culminates in a joyful milestone—a new beginning marked by the purchase of a house in this beloved region.
Where to stay in Asturias
SoloPalacio
SoloPalacio defies conventional notions of luxury country accommodations. Situated in a secluded corner of Asturias amidst breathtaking mountain vistas and rustic villages, this property, once the country estate of the aristocratic Miranda-Quirós family, was transformed into a unique lodging experience by Madrid entrepreneur Carlos Díaz and designer Sofia Tejerina. The property comprises 11 apartments housed in various outbuildings, a chapel, and the original 16th-century manor, opening its doors as SoloPalacio in June 2023. Tejerina’s minimalist design aesthetic, using basic yet striking materials, sets this palatial retreat apart. The interiors feature high ceilings, devoid of excessive adornment, with a focus on raw textures like polished cement floors and bare stone walls. While eschewing traditional luxuries, the property offers a stone-built Wellness Space and an infinity pool boasting panoramic mountain views. Noteworthy is Diaz’s commitment to channeling the hotel’s profits towards local social initiatives and conservation projects, underscoring SoloPalacio’s unconventional ethos.
Book your stay: Expedia
Pueblo Astur
This transformative project in the village of Cofiño near Parres raised the bar for upscale lodging in Asturias upon its inauguration in 2016. The expansive property, encompassing a church, traditional wooden granaries, and stables housing rare-breed livestock, features 30 rooms converted from village houses, an exceptional spa, river pools for swimming, and two farm-to-table restaurants. The fusion of rustic charm with high-end amenities defines the unique appeal of Pueblo Astur.
Book your stay: Booking.com
El Moderne
Nestled in Gijón, Asturias’ vibrant coastal city often likened to Brighton in the UK, El Moderne stands out as a chic boutique hotel housed in a meticulously restored 1931 art-deco building.
Book your stay: Expedia
CoolRooms Palacio de Luces
CoolRooms Palacio de Luces stands out as a premier lodging option in Asturias. Acquired by the dynamic Spanish group CoolRooms in 2018, this establishment seamlessly blends a 16th-century mansion with a modernist extension, offering guests unparalleled views of meadows, farmland, and the Sueve mountain range. The refurbished 44 bedrooms exude an elegant contemporary-classic ambiance, complemented by impeccable service and a gourmet dining experience at the hotel’s restaurant, Tella.
Book your stay: Expedia
Casona de Indias
Located in a former casa de indianos, a residence built for a prosperous returnee from the Americas, Casona de Indias is a charming 7-room hotel set amidst a serene rural backdrop within reach of the Redes natural park. Managed by the hospitable Pedro Armas, this boutique hotel exudes a refined yet cozy atmosphere, offering a delightful retreat for discerning travelers.
Book your stay: Expedia
Parador de Corias
Nestled in the remote southwest of Asturias, Parador de Corias occupies a former monastery renowned as the ‘El Escorial of Asturias.’ This grand granite structure, a recent addition to the state-owned Paradores chain, serves as a gateway to the nearby Muñiellos nature reserve, a vast expanse of pristine deciduous forest and a sanctuary for the Cantabrian brown bear.
Book your stay: Expedia
Hotel de la Reconquista
The iconic Hotel de la Reconquista in Oviedo, steeped in history and elegance, has long been a favored retreat for dignitaries and celebrities attending the prestigious Princess of Asturias awards. Reflecting timeless charm and sophistication, this hotel epitomizes Asturian hospitality and tradition.
Book your stay: Expedia
Casonas Asturianas
Established in 1994, Casonas Asturianas represents a consortium of farmhouse accommodations, historic village houses, and palatial residences offering exceptional quality and value. Guests can discover hidden gems like Villa Argentina in Luarca and Casona de la Paca in Cudillero, exemplifying the opulent modernista architecture favored by affluent Asturians in the early 20th century.
Book your stay: Expedia
Where to eat and drink in Asturias
Restaurante Guëyu Mar
Located at Playa de Vega, Restaurante Guëyu Mar specializes in top-quality fish and seafood sourced from the small-scale fishing harbors along the Cantabrian coast. Indulge in whole fish, such as the virrey, a local firm-fleshed species, expertly prepared over coals or grilled to perfection.
Address: Playa de Vega, 84, 33560 Ribadesella, Asturias, Spain
Website: Link
Casa Marcial
Nestled in Arriondas, Parres, Casa Marcial stands as a three-Michelin-starred culinary haven helmed by Nacho Manzano. Renowned for its inventive and refined dishes rooted in Asturian traditions, this restaurant offers a gastronomic experience like no other.
Address: 33549 Arriondas, Parres, Asturias, Spain
Website: Link
Casa Chuchu
Tucked away in Mieres, Casa Chuchu presents a unique dining experience in a traditional Asturian cider house setting. This unassuming locale surprises patrons with a curated selection of natural wines, artisanal sherries, and innovative ciders, paired with a market-driven menu showcasing seasonal delicacies.
Address: El Parque, s/n, 33610 Turón, Asturias, Spain
Website: Link
Calle Gascona
Embrace the essence of Asturian cider culture at Calle Gascona in Oviedo, a bustling street lined with traditional sidrerías. Immerse yourself in the local custom of escanciado, where cider is poured expertly from a height to aerate the drink, while savoring regional delights like fried pixín (monkfish) and assorted cheeses.
Address: C. Gascona, Oviedo, Asturias, Spain
Website: Link
Vino de Asturias
Venture into the verdant landscapes of Asturias’ southwest to discover vineyards nestled amidst oak and chestnut groves. Experience the region’s winemaking heritage dating back to the 9th century, now undergoing a renaissance with quality designations like Denominación de Origen Cangas and avant-garde wineries such as Antón Chicote, La Muriella, and Monasterio de Corias.
Address: Centro de Empresas de Obanca, 33800 Cangas del Narcea, Asturias
Website: Link