“Lock ahead,” came the call from our captain, Christian, as he shouted down from the wheelhouse above.
I sighed internally as I quickly got up to grab my lifejacket. It seemed like we had just passed through a lock, yet here we were approaching another one swiftly, propelled by the energetic early spring current of the Lot river in southwestern France.
Guiding the boat towards the bank, Christian’s wife Tamsin and I leaped ashore to begin the familiar routine: opening the cumbersome, old-fashioned lock gates that creaked and groaned as if in need of a generous spray of WD-40. Once the gates were swung open, Christian would steer the boat in, and we would then close the gates behind us, only to repeat the process in reverse at the other end. The first few locks were exciting and added to the thrill of our adventure. However, after about six of them, the novelty began to wear off.
It was April, and our group consisted of three adults, five children ranging from 12 to five years old, and a dog. We were among the first to embark on a self-drive boat excursion on the Lot river with Le Boat for the season. Among the nine waterway destinations in France offered by Le Boat, we had chosen the Lot primarily because it allowed us to spend a few nights at my family’s vacation home on either end of the trip.
Our friends Tamsin and Christian had proposed the idea of a self-drive boat journey as a refreshing school holiday getaway, having previously explored the nearby Canal du Midi the year before. Although my husband couldn’t take time off work to join us, we had always discussed the idea of such an adventure. Given Christian’s experience as a yacht captain, it seemed like a wise way to dip our toes into this type of travel to gauge our interest in doing it independently in the future.
We reserved the Vision 4, one of Le Boat’s largest models, measuring nearly 15 meters in length and featuring four cabins, each with its own bathroom. The boat also boasted a communal kitchen area and a sun deck where the wheelhouse was situated. With a maximum capacity of nine passengers, we had the minimum required number of adults onboard: three. In the weeks leading up to our departure, Le Boat’s base in Douelle had contacted us to confirm our check-in time on the day of arrival and to remind us to review the safety videos sent via email. On the morning of our departure, we stocked up on essentials such as water, snacks, and easy-to-prepare meal ingredients, including plenty of pasta, at a nearby Carrefour before heading to Le Boat’s base.
After a thorough check-in process, which included a practice run on the river, we eagerly boarded the boat, making sure that no child or dog was left behind. Following the advice of the Le Boat team in Douelle, we initially cruised downstream, passing by Château de Cayx, the vacation residence of the Danish royal family, and moored for the night near Luzech, close to a bakery and a supermarket where we purchased baguettes and croissants the next morning.
Our itinerary for the trip was simple: leisurely days navigating the river, docking in the late afternoon to allow the children to burn off energy with a bike ride or a walk before preparing dinner onboard. The main highlight we aimed for was St-Cirq-Lapopie, a picturesque medieval village perched atop a promontory overlooking the Lot river.
Although St-Cirq-Lapopie appeared to be a short distance away on the map, around 45 minutes by car, the technicians at Le Boat cautioned us before departure that reaching the village might be challenging if the water levels rose suddenly—a common occurrence on the Lot due to a hydroelectric plant along the river. They assured us they would notify us if such a situation arose.
Equipped with helpful maps from Le Boat highlighting upcoming locks, shallow areas, and nearby marinas, we navigated the winding bends of the scenic river upstream. It didn’t take long for us to settle into a comfortable rhythm, with the children taking turns at the helm under Christian’s guidance, visibly proud of their newfound responsibility.
On the second night, we discovered the type of secluded spot we had envisioned in Vers, a tranquil riverside village divided by a small waterfall. With St-Cirq-Lapopie within reach, we set off early the next morning. However, shortly after we had embarked on our journey, our phones began to ring. It was Le Boat calling to inform us that the water levels were too high to proceed further. We needed to find a mooring spot promptly.
Arriving at the nearest marina, we were met with a tight docking situation, with only one berth remaining. As we carefully maneuvered the boat against the swift current, everyone pitched in to place fenders between our vessel and the moored boats. While the children reveled in the excitement of the moment, our captain, Christian, was less enthralled. The tension mounted as we heard a fender burst against the neighboring boat’s hull during the tricky docking maneuver. Fortunately, Le Boat did not deduct the cost of the damaged fender from our security deposit upon our return.
Eager to resume our journey, the older children decided to cycle the remaining six kilometers to St-Cirq-Lapopie, following a well-marked riverside route that traversed limestone cliffs dating back to the 19th century. By the time we all reconvened at the boat, enchanted by the charming stone houses and vibrant flower boxes of the village, the water levels had receded. It had taken us two nights to reach our destination, and the return journey back to base would require the same amount of time. The trip unfolded in a tranquil haze of reading, card games, savoring local wine, and navigating through the familiar locks in reverse.
Would I embark on a similar adventure again, this time with just my husband and our two children? Absolutely! I found the leisurely pace of travel and the camaraderie among fellow boaters—comprising a mix of French and international travelers—charming. Whether engaging in evening chats on the docks or navigating through tight locks alongside other boats, the experience was both enriching and enjoyable. I feel ready to tackle the locks once more.
However, I might wait until my energetic five-year-old, now six, is a bit older to alleviate concerns about her safety near the water. Alternatively, I might consider a different time of year to sail on the Lot, as the current tends to slow down during the summer months (though this may also mean more boat traffic).
If you are contemplating a self-drive boat holiday in France for the first time, I recommend heading further south towards the Canal du Midi. This man-made canal is said to be more manageable for beginners, at least according to Captain Christian.
Booking Information
A seven-night self-catered cruise on the Lot aboard a Vision 4 during the 2024 boating season, commencing and concluding at Le Boat’s Douelle base, is priced from £1,619 per boat or £180 per person based on nine individuals sharing the vessel.